Monday, 26 February 2018

Tumbarumba Station Building Kit Bash Part 7

Now in Time Synch with this Kit Bash Series
Finally, I have caught up to where I'm am today with this Kit Bash Project as my 2016 and 2017 activities have been covered. However, before getting into the detail of my recent work, I was hoping to have shown more progress, but a few barriers have got in the way of that plan. Some of these Barriers could have influence on how regular my future posts get produced.

Over the last few weeks in Sydney, several hot days were endured, which made my Work Bench location in my Garage a bit too hot to do any work at. Also I had to work on a couple of weekends and other home priorities got in the way. Hence, some of my free Railway modelling time being cut short. 

On top of that, I have my Model Rail Club commitments to fulfil for the upcoming exhibitions, hopefully I will be finishing them off very soon and they will be certainly a subject for my future posts.

This means that I lost out on a few good days in getting this Kit Bash to the point to where I wanted to be which would have been the completion Tumbarumba Station Roof section. However, on the positive, for what has been done, I feel that some great results have been achieved.

Example of a Typical Fibro Asbestos Tile Roofing
Here are existing example of the Fibro Asbestos Tile roofing of a Precast Concrete Station Building based at Bombala. This post is going to be mainly focused on the painting and weathering of the Roof section of Tumbarumba Station Building.

Getting the Roof Detailing Provisions Sorted
Before Painting the Roof, two lots of holes needed to be drilled into the Roof section to allow for the Stove Chimney and the Stink Pipe to be fitted to this structure.

I decided to use 1.6 mm Brass tubing for the Stove Chimney and for the portion of the Stink Pipe where I will utilise part of the Stink Pipe that is supplied with the kit.

Using some of the photographs of Tumbarumba Station that I have come across during my research as a reference, I have determined the location where the Stove Chimney needed to be placed, then I drilled a hole into that location.

Test Fit of the brass tube.

Same method was applied to the Stink Pipe.

Stink Pipe provision tested with the 1.6 mm brass tube.

Painting and Weathering the Roof Section
I first decided to prime and paint my 3D Printed Finnels and Roof Capping. I decided to paint the Finnels and Roof Capping in a colour called Go Mango in the Model Masters Enamel paint range. It will be in the end Dull Coated when the roof section gets completed, which will give the Finnels and Roof Capping a more aged look.

Once the paint was dry I did a test fit on the Roof.

The Tiled Roof Section then got Primed ready for the paint work. For the tiled roof portion, I used Humbrol Ocean Grey 106 Enamel Paint. Not the best paint job, but not an issue as it is going to be weathered.

Before I continued weathering the remainder of the the roof, I decided to do a bit a test paint on my test build of the roof to ensure that I was heading on the correct path.

I dusted the test roof section with a Light Tan Model Masters Enamel paint which I felt worked out well. It is worth noting that this test model of the roof has certainly helped in preventing painful rework on the roof section.

Gave a very Light spray of the Light Tan Model Masters Enamel paint.

In the process of trying to work out what other colours I could use the the weathering of the roof, I did a little bit of experimenting with the Tamiya Panel Line Accent Colour (Black) more so with the aim to better highlighting the grove lines of the tiled roof. However, I found that in areas where the overflow of the Panel Line Accent Colour occurred gave the eroded effect look of the surface material on some of the tiles in which I can take advantage of.

For the remainder of the weathering, I decided to utilise the dry brushing method for the tiled section of the roof. This was the first time that I was going to do dry brushing and after finding a few good YouTube how to videos and trialing the methods on the test roof, I was comfortable to move forward with the dry brushing methods.

I basically utilised the colours that I used so far the painting of the tiled section of the roof but I also introduced Model Masters Dark Ghost Grey Enamel for the dry brushing weathering.

For now, that is all the weathering of the tiled portion of the roof for now. Once the detailing for the roof section is added, further weathering work will need to be carried out.

I then masked up the Roof to allow for the painting of the corrugated awning section and painted it in Humbrol 147 Light Grey Enamel paint. (Note that Humbrol has two Light Grays in their range, the other being 64 which is darker than 147).

I did paint the facias in the Model Masters Light Ivory Enamel paint, but forgot to take photos when I completed it. Taking photos of it now will give too much away for my next post for the Tumbarumba Station Building Kit Bash series, therefore you will have to wait for the next post.

Monday, 12 February 2018

Tumbarumba Station Building Kit Bash Part 6

Refocusing Back on the Kit Bash
My kit bash series of posts for Tumbarumba Station building took a bit of a break as I was wanted to cover other tasks that I had done over the 2016/2017 year.

In this post I would like to cover the remaining Kit Bash activity that I carried out back in 2017. Over the past few weeks, I have been getting back to this Kit Bash project with the aim to get mainly the external detailing completed and gradually get the internal detailing (such as the furniture and other internal detailing) completed more so at a later stage.

Awning Section of Tumbarumba Station
Following on from the last blog on my Kit Bash series, I cut into shape the Corrugated metal siding styrene sheet for the Awning. I selected to use the Styrene option as I do want to lift the roof off this model and have access to the internal detailing. For this to happen, I would require the roof section (including the awning) to be of robust construction to allow for handling.

Due to the length of the Station Building, I needed to acquire the large sheet of Corrugated metal siding styrene sheet that Evergreen had on offer.

When I acquire the Corrugated metal siding styrene sheet and cutout the required length, It was rather bent. I tried to straighten this out be heating up the styrene sheet which did help to a degree but it was still bent. Event having it flattened over under a heavy books over a week did little to straighten it.

The styrene Awning needs a bit of straightening up.

The solution for this issue was to do the following:
- Place in some angled strips of styrene and attached them to the styrene roof cavity supports. This should help in the having the back section of the corrugated metal siding styrene sheet to be kept straight.
- Place a brass strip in the front section of the corrugated metal siding styrene sheet to keep it in a straight form.

As shown in the following pictures that these two method worked well.

Awning Supports
The Awning Supports was another challenge that I came across.
As mentioned earlier, I do want to make the roof detectable. The challenge with having this option if it is not implemented correctly, it is prone to that the awning supports would be at high risk of breaking.

The solution for this issue was to make the awning supports to be attached to the building structure to act more as detailing and take advantage of what was applied for the roof (which is now self supported). Therefore they do not need to carry any of the weight from the roof section. The awning supports will help guide the roof section back into position each time when it is reattached to the station building.

I made use of the Greg Edwards Data sheet to construct the awning supports.

The awning supports were attached to the model. After a few test with removing and reattaching the roof section, the risk of the awning supports failing was determined to be very low risk.

Detailing the Roof Section

I decided to draw up some 3D printouts for the Roof Capping and the Finnels. The roof capping and the Finnels will be one of the last items to be attached to the roof section. But needed to make sure that these 3D Printouts fitted without any issues to the roof.

I decided to use the Northeastern Scale Lumber Co. 5 / Bag HOCORRMRFB "HO" SCALE CORR METAL RF 1 1/2" X 8" just to give the awning a bit more of an authentic look to it. It did fit in well with the existing corrugated metal siding styrene sheet. I used a product called ZAP GOO PT-12. It is a very thick glue, but I find it does the job well in keeping the Northeastern Scale Lumber Corrugated sheeting stuck to the Styrene.

Facias were added to the ends of the roof section.

I also added detailing for the rafters.

My next Post will continue on with this Kit Bash Project.