Friday, 1 October 2021

In Housing My 3D Printing

I have been meaning to purchase a 3D printer for a while now. I have been holding back for a while to see how the various 3D Printers that are available to the consumer market are progressing in their development. And finally, I bit the bullet and acquired myself an Anycubic 3D Resin Printer. Here is what I have been up to over this past month.

My First home produced 3D Printed project compared to the real structure.

Justification In Getting My Own 3D Printer

Up until now, I have been sending off my 3D Drawings to Shapeways to produce the 3D Printouts. I have been satisfied with the 3D Printed products that Shapeways have produced for me. But the main challenges faced is the cost of the Print as well more to the fact that if the model looked good as a drawing, the printout may not have produced what I hoped for. For example, the 3D Drawing of Muttama Curtin for the waiting room entry looked good as a drawing but not as a 3D print. Which meant a corrected reprint at Shapeways was needed which came at a cost where the postage was going to cost way more than the print itself. Luckily, I was able to combine a Shapeways order with one of my model rail friends which reduced the postage cost in getting the corrected model posted to me. This is not the first time that this scenario has happened to me. Furthermore, the costs in getting 3D prints done through Shapeways have been much higher since I started 3D Printing Models a few years ago due to several factors such as, Shapeways increasing their overheads and not having special deals on a regular basis, GST being added onto imported goods and the AUD Dollar being weaker to the US Dollar. But the most expensive overhead is the postage. Hence, having a 3D Printer that can be used even to do test prints to see how they turn out and if  they have turned out well, then it would eliminate some unnecessary costs.

Its Finally Here

After seeing an Online Deal and taking into account that anything that has electrical components in them are said to be going to be up to 25% more expensive in the not too distant future due to component shortages, I decided to purchase the Anycubic Photon Mono X with the Wash and Cure Station Plus.

Resin 3D Printing is a new deal to me and thankfully I had a helpful source to guide me through the methods on how to print on a Resin Printer. I decided to print off my first 3D Print that a specifically drawn up to be printed on this particular 3D printer. First, print failed, not because of a bad print job, but the resin prints are brittle and were breaking up when I was removing them from the build plate. This issue was simply resolved by pouring hot water over the models on the build plate which have made the resin material flex a bit and with a hobby knife with a chisel type blade and a Stanley knife blade, I was able to remove the 3D prints without breaking them. 

In my opinion, the Wash and Cure Station is a must as the 3D prints do need have a decent wash in order to clean off uncured resin residue and the model will also need to go through the curing process to fully cure the model. Also uncured resin can make a mess if not cleaned properly and it is highly advised to avoid skin contact.

Doing the First test Print before my first print.

The Wash and Cure Plus Machine shown here doing its curing activities.


First NSWGR Resin Printed 3D Model The Royal National Park Signal Box

When waiting for the postage of the 3D Printer, in that time I decided to draw up in kit form the Precast Concrete Signal Box that remains at the Royal National Park. Not only it still exists in a derelict state, it was within my LGA so I was permitted to venture out there. Therefore I was able to determine and confirm measurements to make up this kit as close to prototypical.


The Royal National Park Signal Box as it is today

Now for the Print and a partial test build. I used Super Glue to build this model from the printed material. As the print do not consume too much resin, I did do duplicate prints, one for a test build and the other to use for casting if the model worked out.
 


From the build plate to the simulated build


Prints turned out ok. I did need to make a few minor refinements to the model to make it work out. This Printer has saved me cost of prints and postage from Shapeways. Money saved can be used for making moulds to cast this model. 

Making  The Royal National Park Signal Box As A Flat Pack Kit

The final prints came out in ok state, meaning the non scenic parts of this model did not print out ideally to my expectations, but the sides of the model that had the detail turned perfectly well. Therefore I decided to bypass Shapeways and get straight into the making moulds to cast this model Kit.



Moulds made and first lot of polyurethane resin has been poured in.

First run of the main body of the Signal Box and the roof castings done.

Using styrene strip to join the the corners up, this was glued up with Super Glue.


I eventually printed out and casted the base portion of the Signal box. Notice how the styrene strip threads through the base which is very helpful in lining up the base of the model.


Primed up ready to be painted up, but still pending the roof section to be completed.




Model Painted and completed.

3D Printing via Resin Printer Versus Shapeways
As mentioned earlier, the key parts of this model that are visible have turned out extremely well via the 3D resin Printer and no effort was needed in cleaning up the detail was needed. In fact no print lines at all was a great outcome for this 3D project. However, resin printing I found do seems to warp a bit. This is an issue faced with seasoned users of 3D Resin Printers. I have found that the Resin Prints can bend flat into shape via heating them in hot water or a hair dryer and flattening out on the base with double sided sticky tape before casting them does work out well. Which it did in this case.

However, there will be occasions that the resin printer may not be able to deliver a satisfactory print but would prove that it would workout well via a Shapeways print. Lets face it, consumer based resin 3D printers are a fraction of the cost compared to the Shapeways 3D Printers and further to that point Shapeways is a professional 3D Printing Service (along with their competitors) and they do deliver a nice print with a sizeable range of 3D Printing materials available. If I was to go to Shapeways for this print as is, it would be indeed a costly exercise, but everything would be in near perfect form. Only criticism with a Shapeways print, is that you need to clean the model and do a bit of light sanding to remove the 3D printed lines. 

Example of a Model that I have done in the past that made for a better model via Shapesways is my CC1 Precast Toilet block. Prints well via Shapeways but not so good via my Resin 3D Printer. But, at least it can be test printed via the Resin Printer to see if it good to go through as a Shapeways print.

At the time of writing up this blog, I did upload the various parts that was needed to make up the Royal National Park Signal Box via Shapeways. Quote via Shapeways would have cost me around the $250 AUD mark to print out which also included postage. To bring down the price, I would have needed to draw up a more completed building in fewer parts to try and reduce the price which I would guesstimate to reduce the cost from one third to half of the cost. Either way, the Royal Nation Park Signal Box Project has been cheap to printout and cast out as a polyurethane model and can be reproduced on demand at a very affordable price.

However, for example, my NSWGR CC1 Gents Toilets are best available via my Shapeways store to the scaled model solution. The good thing about Shapeways is that you can put your 3D Prints to market, which I have for my NSWGR CC1 Gents Toilets.

Here are the links to mine and Ray Pilgrims Signal Branch 3D Branch shop on Shapeways. The reason I mention this is that it is likely that Shapeways will have the Black Friday and Cyber Monday at the End of November. This may be a good time to get your prints done at a discounted price. It may be one of the very few sales that Shapeways has in the year for 3D Printing materials that are needed to print in fine detail in HO and N Scale. Maybe the best time where multiple purchases can be made under the one postage by other 3D modellers. Not so much my store, but Rays has a very comprehensive range of NSWGR Line side items and parts to enhance some of the NSWGR HO Scale Locomotives details which is worth looking at.

Ray Pilgrims Signal Branch
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/signalsbranch?li=pb

My Store
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/branching-out-rail-models?li=pb


As for other activities for the Month of September. I have done a little bit to my Stock Yard ramps for my Muttama Layout Project which I will give a more detailed update on in my next blog. 

Until Then, Stay safe.





Friday, 10 September 2021

NSWGR Precast Concrete Platform

This post will be dedicated to a kit that I recently produced. Last year, I wanted to do a 3D Printed Model of the NSWGR Precast Platform for a working Diorama type layout which was best done as a 3D print out produced from Shapeways.  However, the down point of this approach is that the cost to make the standard short length of this platform would be very high and the longer length version would have almost been doubled which would have been very questionable if it was worth doing this project at all. Therefore, I got the 3D Prints on certain parts of the platform and created a casted model kit out of them.

The following is an instructional steps on how I produced this platform, Instructional steps on how to build up this platforms and a bit of historical background on these platforms.

Just appearing form the undergrowth is an intact Standard Short Length Precast Concrete Platform which is one of the few remaining items of Windowie Railway station (On the Kunama Branch).

Development Of The NSWGR Precast Platform Kit

To address the challenge of preventing this model to exceed reasonable costs, but also could be easily reproduced for other projects. With also the flexibility to make desired lengths and be able to be profiled also to be a Curbed Platform (like the case at Robertson Railway Station), I have 3D drawn up and got printed several different platform parts to be able to construct a Platform.


The Platform Ramp ends and various size sections of platforms that have printed out in Fine Detail Plastic by Shapeways.

These parts have been made to be able to be casted and produced into not just a simple kit that someone at beginner level and beyond can build up, but ends up being completed into a solid neat looking item that can be placed on your Layout. 

Building the NSWGR Precast Platform Kit

My first build of this platform took me one night to assemble, paint and to weather it up. 

What is needed are the casted up platform pieces, a ruler (Preferably a Steel Ruler), Super Glue, (Optional) Styrene strip (Ideally anything above 2.5 mm x 2.5 mm styrene strips), Primer, Paints and weathering items (what works best for you to your method of painting and weathering). I will share the details of paints and weathering methods that I used for this platform build. 

Also a file will be needed to remove any exceed flushing from the casting and remove any obstructions that may prevent a flush connections between the platform parts.

I used Loctite Gel Control Super Glue that I got from Bunnings to join the Pieces of Platform together and to glue on the styrene strip on the back of the platform to assist with holding in the Pieces of Platforms together which also makes the platform rigid. Styrene strip does not have to be used, but without it you can run the slight risk of the platform breaking apart when moving it around when fitting it onto your layout.

The Ruler helps allow the platform pieces join together straight and square to one another.

My First Cast job that I have done on my own. I have done this a few times before under supervision of someone who makes castings on a regular basis.

First Standard Short Length Precast Concrete Platform built up.

Primed the Platform using Tamiya Primer.

I will be using SMS Paints IJK Deck Tan as the base colour and Mig Oilbrushers Bluff, Medium Grey and Black for the weathering. I will be using a soft bristled brush and cotton bugs to apply the weathering.

SMS Paints IJK Deck Tan applied.

With the Oilbrushers, I dabbed on each colour and blended them on the model. I applied the lighter colours of oilbrushers on first and the black last. With the black, apply it to where the joints and grooves are.

Oilbrusher paints being blended into the model with a soft bristled Brush. Cotton Buds were also used to help blend in and remove and unwanted excess weathering. With OilBrusher paints, the good thing I like about them when it comes to weathering, they will take a few days to dry up allowing for plenty of time for any touch ups if needed.

The completed standard short length Precast Concrete platform.

The completed standard long length Precast Concrete platform.


I have not at this point been able to fix in place the Platform in place. Therefore, a pictorial steps on how to fix to fix it in place will not be available for now. You will notice that I have placed in some extended lengths on the vertical supports for the platform. For my layouts, I normally use the use a layer of 7mm thick Portugal Cork as a noise suppressant and it makes for easier track laying plus other advantages. I would drill holes where the posts extended out as one means to keep the platform anchored in place when fixed into the layout. If your layout does not have a layer of foam or Portugal Cork, you can use a pair of pliers or track cutters to trim off. Track level (top the track level) should be approximately be around the first lower line of the platform. Drainage holes would normally be covered with the ballast. 

I use off cuts of Portugal cork to make up my platforms mound and I would use Liquid Nails to adhere the platform in place.

Will These Kits Be Made Available For Sale?
Sort quick answer is yes. However only a small run of these platforms will be for sale in kit form. The reason is that it does take time and effort in casting these models and with the lockdown still ongoing in Sydney plus the fact I just wanted to do something a little different for a short time to have a break from building up my model rail project of Muttama. I wanted to experiment with casting and see how many platforms that I can be casted before the rubber moulds I made starts to break. The end result is I have produced more than what I needed and happy to part with the excess platform parts to go to a good home. Basically, most of the casted up platform bits have been produced have turned out very well and not only that, the polyurethane material is for one very robust and ready to paint up as soon as it is assembled.

There will be a Kit for the typical standard short Rural platform which will be in total length of 67cm and the Typical Long Rural Platform 83cm (which will be an extension pack option sold with the Standard Short Platform Pack). 

These platforms will go well with the Casula Hobbies Rail Central Pc Station Building range mostly with the Pc3 Station Building kit.

Completed short and long Rural Precast Platform.

I will be initially going to some various Facebook Model Rail Buy swap and sell groups to sell these kits. 

Historical Back Ground On The Precast Concrete Platforms
The following I'm happy to be stand corrected on as I have only done very brief research on this topic. On the Bombala Branch, it seems that Bukalong and Bombala Railway station platforms were the earliest example of Precast Concrete Platform on the NSWGR Network. However, it must have been possible it was experimental as this style of Precast Concrete platforms have not been found elsewhere.


Could the Precast Concrete platforms at Bombala and Bukalong be the first proof of concept Precast Concrete platforms to be rolled out on the NSWGR Network.

The Westby Branch line seems to have been the first recipient of the Standard Precast Concrete Platform (the one that has been modelled here) back in 1925, with Burrandana and Westby stations being provided with this standard of Precast Concrete platform. However, in saying this Windowie Station was provided with this standard of Precast Concrete Platform, which is unusual to the fact that the Kunama (or better known as the Batlow Branch) was put into production in 1923. Was the Platform at Windowie the test case before rolling this standard of platform out or was it a replacement platform to its original platform?


Where On The NSWGR Network Could Be Found?
I have so far found the following Mainlines and Branch Lines to have these Precast Platforms

Westby Branchline - Burrandana and Westby Railway station
Talaga Branchline - Strathaird station
Broken Hill Mainline - Some stations
Kywong Branchline - All stations
Naradhan Branchline - Appears to be all stations
Burcher Branchline - Appears to be all stations
Boggabilla Branchline - Appears to be all stations
Unanderra - Moss Vale Line - All stations except Mt Murray

It is also worth noting that there may have been several Suburban Stations and Rural stations that may have had their original platform replaced by these Precast Concrete Station Platforms. 

Best source of information for station location research is from the various Facebook NSWGR groups that show historical photographs and website https://www.nswrail.net/.






Friday, 3 September 2021

HO NSWGR Exhibition Muttama Layout Build Plus More August 2021 Update

Another month in lockdown mode, but focus has been more made on getting the house sorted, especially the outdoor choirs which I have been taking advantage of the recent warm weather. Progress has been slow but steady on the Muttama Exhibition Layout build, but got distracted on another pending small model rail project which I will touch on later on in this blog.

Muttama Stock Yard

Unfortunately, there are no plans that could be found for the stock yard that was based at Muttama and the few photographs I have found for Muttama only shows a not so clear distant shot of the stock yard ramps. From what I could find on the Track Diagrams for Muttama, there was a Sheep Race and a Cattle Race based next to the Goods Shed. I needed to workout what would be an appropriate Sheep and Cattle Stock Races that I can construct for Muttama that will fit in the remaining area of the Loop siding.


Building the Stock Yard Races for Muttama

The other month, I was provided with several plans of Stock Yards that were based at various locations in NSW. The long story short, they all varied in designs. I managed to find something that I felt would be suitable, which was the Stock Yard Races for both Sheep and Cattle plans for Corowa. Basically, they were more appropriate as both Sheep and Cattle Races were narrow in design compared to other locations and would be make this an easy fit into the limited space that I have left to place the stock yard races. Now to present you with that infamous Railway Modellers Licence to explain how it is going to work out from here on in.

Scale down Plan prints to fit in the stock yard into the Loop Siding. On the right is a Sheep wagon and on the left is the Cattle Wagon.

As stated from the above arial shot of my Stock Yard, what I have determined the final distance between the Cattle Races and the Sheep Races was determined from having a Cattle Wagon and a Sheep Wagon coupled up and be positioned to where each of the doors of the wagon meet up. From the plan, both the lower and Upper Sheep Races matched where the doors were on the Sheep wagon. Unlike the plan, I will be using the Upper Sheep Race on the right and the Lower on the left when facing the front. This approach allowed to free up some reasonable space between the Goods Shed and the Stock yard races. 

I'm not following any particular building method here, just making it up as I go along, however what I have done is set the actual plan to HO scale so that it can be used as a Template. Below are the progressive photos on the construction of the Sheep Races which are still in a work in progress at the time of writing this blog.











Still need some more work to be done on them and as other detailing parts are yet to be made up. Hopefully I can get a lot more progress done in September.

NSWGR Precast Concrete Platform



Late last year, amongst with other 3D drawings, I thought to draw up the Precast platform and got it printed through Shapeways. The plan is to use this Platform for an upcoming Diorama Layout project. To do a full print of the Platform would have been done at an extreme cost for what it was really worth, therefore decided to draw up and print up parts of the platform that the 3D Printouts can be casted and reproduced for a lesser cost. 

Recently, I have been able to make the moulds and casted up the platform, built it up, painted and weather it. I have to say, I was very impressed with myself on the end result.
 
I will be intending to do a dedicated Blog for this Precast concrete platform project in the very near future.




Friday, 6 August 2021

HO NSWGR Exhibition Muttama Layout Build July 2021 Update

Sydney had to endure a second lockdown due to COVID which has resulted in my busy social schedule for July and August being cancelled out. Thankfully, I have enough materials and pending model rail projects to keep me going as long as I do not run out of paint. 

For now, all focus will be mainly on Muttama and Narellan. Narellan more for rolling stock and Muttama for the completion of this Layout Project.

On the positive, unlike June's progress which was slow. July has allowed for a lot of good progress for minor line side items to be constructed and completed which has made some big steps forward in completing Muttama. 

The models that were completed in July

The Gatekeepers Outhouse
One of the most important facilities for any home to function, but back in the day, the Outhouse was the prime solution. Im only just old enough to have seen the various types of Out Houses which most of them that were still in existence in the 1980's have since long disappeared.

On the plans that I got for the Gatekeepers cottage for Muttama it included the plan for the Outhouse.

Building The Gatekeepers Outhouse
As the pictures will describe most of steps that took to build the Outhouse. I should mention that I constructed this model to only present details that is visible from the various viewing points of the layout as it is no point detailing the areas inside the model that are not visible. For this build, I only detailed the internal back wall and the and the right wall on the inside facing the model from the front. I also felt compelled to model the thunder box.
Evergreen 1.5mm clap board siding cut to size.

First corner half of the Outhouse built.

Seating area of the thunder box being constructed. X marks the spot for the centre for the opening which will become a 4mm hole. It should be noted that I started with a 0.5mm Drill via use of a pinvise. As the 4mm drill was too big to fit in the pinvise, I carefully drilled the 4mm hole by hand.


Thunder Box is now looking cosy. The styrene that goes from the seat to the floor is Evergreen 1.5mm styrene 0.5 thick V Grove siding. You should just make out that I have a couple of wedges along the side if the entry which will be used to mount the door.


Painted the Outhouse with SMS Paints German Cream, Dark brown and the floor with Deck Tan. I thought painting the Outhouse in a different colour would be appropriate in order not to make it boring colour wise.


Both halves of the building have been glued together. Just the roof to be built. But enjoy the view of the details before the roof gets fitted on for good.

Roof constructed and almost ready to be fitted on the Outhouse. Just need a little more detailing added to it.

Fencing for the outhouse (as shown on the plans) have been constructed out of styrene. Made sure there was a of length on the fence posts so I can properly anchor in the fence. 



Fence was primed and detailed with Tamiya dry brushing weathering powders. It should be noted that I used a serrated hobby knife blade on the styrene to get the graining look as the same as timber before priming and weathering. 

Roof detailing completed and now fixed to the outhouse with superglue. Model ready to be fixed the layout when the time is right to do so.

NSWGR Portable Rest Cabin Standard "A"
The Portable Rest Cabin were based mainly at Terminus stations of a Branch Lines. They would have also been found in major rural Rail depots or in random locations such as in this case on the line side of Muttama. Rest Cabin as the name applies, was mainly for Locomotive Crew to rest between shifts, but could have been used for other purposes. Unfortunately, I have found no real detail on what other applications it could have been used for and why would there be one placed in Muttama. In a Branch Line Terminus setting such as Tumbarumba, the Rest Cabin would have also surrounded by other structures such as Kitchen, Lavatory and Out House facilities. There was also a NSWGR Standard Portable Rest Cabin Standard "B" which was the structure that would have the Kitchen, Lavatory, Bedroom and even a Shower included under the one roof.

Muttama Portable Rest Cabin
In one of the Photos of Muttama which can be found on the NSWRailnet site (Link https://nswrail.net/locations/show.php?name=NSW:Muttama) which presents a Black and White picture of the Tumut end from Muttama station, shows to the left a picture of a Cabin that resembles a Portable Rest Cabin. At this point of time, I am unable to determine the actual reason for the placement of this Rest Cabin based at Muttama, but my assumption is either for storage or a Rest Cabin for the Fettler's.

Building Muttama's Rest Cabin
I found this build to be an easy and quick build. This is the first time that I have made a model from the Novelty siding, which has a very close similarity to the timber sideboards that were used on many NSWGR line side structures. Following are the pictorial steps that I carried out to build the Rest Cabin.

The Styrene Sheet used here is Evergreen Novelty Siding (4062) 1.5mm groove spacing on 1mm thick styrene Sheet. I have drawn out the dimensions of the walls of the Rest Cabin that are needed to be cut out. Note that I did both side walls and end walls to have the same vertical cut to ensure that they all are at the same width. Also worth noting that I have put an up arrow as a this side up for each wall to prevent having the walls being assembles the wrong away round. A very easy mistake to make especially when the styrene is not painted. 

All four walls cut up successfully.

Door and Windows have been cut out. The back wall window is part of a 3D printout of a window that I did for the Wingello project a few years back. The Door is the Grandt Line 30" x 66" Planked Door (5293) and the Windows at each end are Grandt Line 28" x 48" 2/1 DBL Hung (5284). The Grandt Line Windows are not an exact measurement from the plans, but are very near enough to it.

I have used 1.5mm thick Styrene for the floor of the Rest Cabin. 1mm x 1mm Styrene Strips for where the corners meet. Another layer of 0.75mm thick styrene sheet was added on the inside walls to strengthen up the building.

All four walls and based are now permanently fixed together.

Roof has been constructed. I got right into the build forgetting to take some progressive shots. The most positive outcome from Roof construction, from the metal siding styrene sheet I was able to make a partial cut in the center and was able to fold into shape without snapping it into two pieces (which is rare for me to achieve). This had made it easier for me fit in the gusset which will served a few purposes such as strengthening the roof, holding the roof into shape and not allowing the roof to slide into place when fitted to the body of the building. I also forgot take progressive photos shots in adding the Roof Capping, the eaves and the guttering. 

As the Grandt Line Widows were more of a 3 pane window, I needed to use the thinnest strip of styrene which is 0.25mm x 0.5mm Styrene Strip (Evergreen 100) and try to cut it at the precise length to convert it to a 4 pane window. Before is seen on the left, the after is on the right. I used the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement to adhere the styrene strip to the window frame. I found that the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement was great for this fine detailing work as it allowed time for the strip to be positioned in the desired place as well letting it also stick in place to the model before setting.

Both Windows completed.

Perch of the back window added using 1mm x 1mm strip of styrene.



Rest Cabin got primed, painted, windows glazed in clear styrene, windows and door fitted. Ready to be fixed to the layout when the time is right. I decided to go with a different colour, this time in a SMS Paints Mid Stone for the main colour, Natural Grey fo the roof and Dark Brown for the door, window frames and the guttering.

NSWGR Standard Sanitary Accomodation 
Ok, this is seems to have been a fancy name for a toilet facility. With the photos I have seen of Muttama passenger platform,  one of them shows a partial corrugated wall which seems to be a toilet facility that was not the typical design. However, a while ago, I did find plans in the NSW ARHS Rail Resource Center for NSWGR Standard Sanitary Accomodation ST152A that best represented the potential toilet facility to what could have possibly been placed on Muttama Passenger Station. In saying this, looking at other historical photographic examples of Stations that had toilet facilities that were not of the main stream design build up with corrugated Metal sheets and timber frames were located at Hill Top and Toolijooa, but not in the exact plan to ST152A but part of it. Therefore I decided to build the NSWGR Standard Sanitary Accomodation ST152A as from the plan.

Building Muttama's Station Sanitary Accomodation
Before I could start the construction of the Sanitary Accomodation, I had to draw out the plan with the to scale measurements before going ahead with the Build. I had some left over Evergreen Metal Siding which would have normally not been enough for most projects I do, but was more than enough for this build.
I decided to use Evergreen styrene simply to the fact that it is more robust when compared to the the foil corrugated sheeting. Unfortunately with the the Styrene corrugated Metal Siding option one side of the sheet is a flat surface with no Corrugations. Therefore, I had to ensure the parts of the model that were visible showed the corrugations. 

I have drawn up a floor plan and provided a reference number for each part which was reflected on the left over styrene metal siding sheet which helps greatly in the construction of this model by removing any confusion on the assembly.



The top 4 pictures shows the main body of this model completed. Window frame I scratched build from styrene. I will glaze the window clear styrene sheet etched with a scalpel to get that louvered window look. 

The plans stated that this Toilet facility had a concrete base, which I cut up a square bit of Styrene sheet for the base. Here I'm in the process of sizing it up to get the final cut done.

Model Painted up and painted on the main body and the concrete base. I left the areas that the main body  of the model was going to be glued to the base unpainted to ensure the Tamiya cement glue can set properly. I needed to hold the model in place for approximately for 5 minutes to allow it to set into place. Note that I have at this point not trimmed the strips that support the roof. I needed to see how those strips got position when the model got fixed to the base. It is also worth mentioning that I have also attached the doors to the model before fixing the base on which are hard to see in these pictures.

Roof Support finally Trimmed and added foil corrugated more for a more realistic look. You will notice at the wall to the entry of this toilet facility that it is the flat side of the corrugated styrene sheet. As mentioned earlier, any part that is not visible will have the flat side of the styrene sheet.



Model Completed

To wrap the update on the build of the NSWGR Standard Sanitary Accomodation, The base colour for this model was done in Tamiya Natural Grey and light spray in SMS Natural Grey. The Tamiya Natural Grey is much darker than the SMS Paints Natural Grey. When I get to applying the back scene and add in the lighting to the layout, this will determine how well the galvanised effect shows and may be subjected to a little bit more of weathering work to get the desired effect.

Closing note for the July 2021 Update
Certainly the progress on the Muttama Layout has become at a rapid pace with 3 structures now at completion status. I'm currently onto the last line side structure which is the Stock Yard Races which is certainly going to be a new build challenge for me. More on that for the next months blog. Until then, stay safe out there.

Styrene to construct the Stock Races