Monday, 12 November 2018

Glenroy Pc1 Station Building Kit Bash Part 1

Glenroy Railway Station
Glenroy Railway Station is the last station before Tumbarumba. I guess what makes Glenroy unique is that is located on a Middle of a paddock and seems to have no real industry or significant population around its vicinity, which one would question if that station ever held any relevance at all.

Overlooking the area where Glenroy Railway Station once stood

It seems that the lack of relevance reflected on its lack of maintenance it receive compared to Rosewood, which had a Pc1Building like Glenroy but was located near a township. Basically, the pictures that I have sourced of Glenroy seem to have indicated that it only had one paint job during its production life, all of the roof capping and the finnels seem to have been removed or blasted apart from firearm target practice (my guess anyway) and facias for the awning have mostly fallen off.

I was originally was not going to include Glenroy in the may layout but decided to include it later on the planing stages as it does contain a siding, goods platform and that it would be good to add it as it was only a short distance away from a timber tressel bridge that I intend to include onto the layout. Furthermore, modelling Glenroy in the neglected state would be a new challenge for me to attempt.

Not Glenroy, but this Pc1 Station Shelter based at Bukalong is of the same standard as the the Pc1 that once stood at Glenroy.


Why am I not using the Pc1 Rail Central Kit in it's as is form?
Basically, Pc1 stations did get rolled out in different configurations. Some had a loading platform and entry at the back of the Building, whilst other Pc1's did not have the back entry. Some Pc1's had fan lights at the door entry, some didn't.

The Pc1 Rail Central Kit in its current configuration is a 15 Inch Concrete Panel Pc Building that has a Loading platform and a back entry with fan lights. Glenroy was not in that configuration. It had 1 entry into the Station Shelter Building and contained no fan lights.

Rail Central Pc2 and Pc1 kits. Various parts from each of these kits will be used for this kit bash exercise.

Kit Bashing lower part of Glenroy Pc1
Before I start going into the detailing of this kit bash project, I decided to use the Rail Central Pc1 and Pc2 as I do intend to do a project later on where I can use the parts that I do not need for Glenroy, but will be definitely intending to use the remaining parts left over for a future Pc2 Kit Bash Project. And I will be acquiring the parts needed from the Pc2 Kit that will be best suited for Glenroy. It is worth mentioning that I have used some of my left over from the Pc2 kit that cut up for the extension for my Tumbarumba Station Building for this kit bash project.

From the Pc1 Kit, I have removed the loading platform as Glenroy Pc1 did not have a back entry. I have kept the loading platform for a later project.

Carefully carved out the area where the loading platform and filed it flush with the existing groove that the walls will be placed into.

 This panel was what was left over from my Tumbramba Pc2+ Kit bash project. I decided to use that panel for this kit bash, though the panel from the Pc2 Kit that I will be extracting the entry from could  certainly be made used of. Any panels short, you can simply use styrene sheet with the panels etched into it to make walls as an alternative if needed.

 This is a bit of a retro fit to see if what I have cut out is on target.

From the Pc2 Kit, the shelter shed section has been extracted from the front panel of the kit. As mentioned earlier, no fan lights in the shelter shed component of the Rail Central Pc2 kit. 

 Some panel resizing work was needed.

Above picture is more of a retro fit practice to ensure that I have all the panels at the correct length before going into the final stages in gluing it together. Couple of points that need to be made, I have made use of a strip of styrene which helped correct the length for that panel. If cutting up panels and want to replace the area which you cut with a saw, then use the same thickness of styrene strip as the width of the cut that has been made to restore the length. Note: That I was given this advise from a fellow railway modeller.

You will also notices the this model is on copy of the original plan which I have copied and printed in  to HO scale to use as guide. The plan was sourced from the NSW ARHS Resource Centre Archives referred as Signal Drawing Y8. There is one for a Pc2 referenced as Signal Drawing Y7.

 Line markings where each of the concrete panels meets have drawn to prepare for the internal detailing which is not included in with the Pc1 kit.

Styrene strips representing the concrete panels have been glued onto the internal walls of this kit. These strips were cut to the correct width by us of a duplicator. By doing the internal detailing via this method is not just to make the inside of the model to look nice, but more importantly, the weak point where the panels that were cut up earlier and then glued onto another panel are eliminated, making the model less likely to fall apart or implode when handling it.

I acquired recently this angle clamp manufactured by Proses Model Railway Accessories call "Hold & Glue " Right Angle Holders. I decided to do the gluing of the side walls for as figured out that it will help place the front and back walls in the correct position later on.

Once the strips been glued, ensure that with a use of scribe or edge of a hobby file, etch in the grooves styrene extension in the panel. This should be done before gluing in the neighbouring panels. Where the styrene strip has been added, it has been lightly sanded (using sanding sticks) to get it flush with the original panel.

The back wall is just about completed.

The front wall of this model, I did not use any styrene strips to connect the panels that I cut into size.

Happy with how it is going so far.

I decided to go for a bit of detailing on the inside as this Model of Glenroy Pc1 as you will be able to see a bit of the inside of this model when it makes it place on the layout. By pure incident, as mentioned earlier, it has helped firm up the structure of this model, before placing the styrene detailing on the wall, joins where the panels were glued did flex. Once the wall detailing was completed, the flexing was eliminated.

Front all internal detailing eliminated.

Here are the corner post that have the groove in the centre. I have made these from 1.5 mm x 0.5 mm Styrene Strip sandwich in-between 2 mm x 0.75 mm Styrene strip.

Corner posts now glued to the modelled.

Corbels for the awning support have been manufactured and fixed to the model. More on how I manufactured the corbels will be found in part 2 in Glenroy Pc1 Station Building Kit Bash series of my blogs.

Internal detailing the base of the structure has been completed.

Main body of this Pc1 Kit has been completed, with the step added to the entry of the shelter shed.

Very happy with the progress of this model. Part 2 will move onto the construction of the roof section of Glenroy Pc1.

On a closing note, if you are wondering how my kit bash of my Tumbarumba Pc2+ building is progressing, I decided to put that project on the sideline just for the short term as I have been encountering issues in keeping some of the stilts attached to the base of the building. I'm sure I will find a solution for that challenge, but in the meantime I will complete Glenroy then work on solving that stilt issue with Tumbarumba Pc2+ building.

The corner of Tumbarumba Pc2+ that I am encountering the stilts detaching themselves off this structure.


Sunday, 21 October 2018

Painting Wingello Line Side Structures

Before I go into the Main Topic of of This Blog
It has again been a while since I have done a post as work for me has been extremely busy over the past few months. This has taken away a lot of my spare time that I would normally have. The small amount of time that I had available was spent in trying to get Wingello ready with the slight chance of making it to the Sydney Model Rail Exhibition at Liverpool which did not eventuate. But as fate has it, it was not a bad thing that Wingello did not make it to the Liverpool Show as it will give my Model Rail Club a lot of time to get Wingello right for the events that will come our way in 2019, in which all I can say is that it is going to be worth the wait.
I have also taken just a small break from the hobby (which one needs every now and then), but  resumed a couple of weeks ago when a chunk of spare model rail time came way. This included getting some overdue attention to my Tumbarumba Project, which will be part of an upcoming blog.

Eitherway, back to the topic of Painting of Wingello Line side Structures, which I did send out a teaser picture from my last post.

Painting of the Models
I'm now in the final stages in completing the Wingello structures with the painting of the models.
It is worth mentioning, that my experience in painting models may go perfectly well in some instances but not so perfect in others. Yes, it can be painful experience where the paint job may need to be stripped back, prime and painted again. Even the more experienced Railway Modellers I do believe have these painful experiences frequently. However, it does all end well at some point.

Choices of Colour for Wingello
The members of my model rail club discussed the topic of colour throughout the project and we concluded that we wanted to paint the buildings similar to one of the previous colour schemes. We decided to go for a Ivory like colour for the main body of the structures with a green roof and White window frames.

After we tested out some colours, we decided to utilise the following colours:

Radome Tan (Model Masters Enamel) For main body of the Structures.
Green Zinc Chromate (Model Masters Enamel) For the Roofs of the Structures
Flat White (Model Masters Enamel) For the window frames
Leather (Model Masters Enamel) For the skirting, doors and door frames.

Applying the Paint
Preparing the model for painting is for me is one of the least favourite tasks, but necessary. Basically it involves removing grit or dust from the model. Then paint the model in Primer. Then mask up the areas of the model exposing the areas that you desire to paint in the desired colour. Wait for the paint to dry before moving onto the next colour that needs to be painted. Then repeat the process again for the next colour to be applied.

For this case, I will be using an airbrush to paint these structures.

Here are the pictures of my painting efforts.















Basically, just a few areas that will need to receive a little touch up paint, but happy with the outcome. This was not done drama free, I did have to strip back a couple of my paint jobs and start from scratch, but persistence pays off in the end.



Wednesday, 12 September 2018

Overdue update

It has been a while since my last blog, but it does not mean that my work on Wingello has stopped.

In fact, I have been rather busy recently on a lot of work activities which has taken away some of my model rail time, where I have been using some of that spare time in getting my part of Wingello completed but a the cost of keeping this blog page updated.

Hopefully thought in next few weeks, some good extra free time will be at my disposal where I'm am also Hopeful I can get back to focus on my home layout of Tumbarumba.

On a closing note, I thought at least appropriate to post in a teaser picture of Wingello. Hope to provide something more insightful in my next post.

Monday, 23 July 2018

Exhibition Layout Project- Wingello Waiting Room with Out of Room Part 2

This post continues on with the construction of the roof section of Wingello Waiting Room with Out of Room.

I found that Building the Roof portion of a pitched rood structure that contains an awning can be a bit of a challenge, but I was to somehow to resolve these challenges. I hope this post will be helpful for those who have a desire to scratch build.

Building the Roof
For this part of the build for Wingello Waiting Room with Out of Room, I did come a cross a couple of issues along the way that needed that additional work.

Building the roof on its own without any awnings is easy, but with case of Wingello's Waiting Room model, I needed to construct the awning in a way that it was robust and self supporting. The reason for this is the awning supports which are 3D printouts will not be strong enough to support the awning. Also being part of an exhibition layout, it is going to be moved around and potentially knocked around during transportation to future Exhibition venues. The last thing myself and my fellow Club Members would not like to see is structures showing damage or having to repair structures at an Exhibition event.

Metal Siding Styrene sheet has been measured out and cut into size. The intention is to have a portion of the Styrene Sheet to go into the Roof cavity and be fixed internally so to allow for the outside portion of the awning cover to be self supported.

I had an off cut of Metal Siding Styrene sheet which I used to test out what results would be expected when the roof portion gets constructed. I identified a few issues which were the Metal Siding Styrene sheeting will not be aligned with the roof pitch of the main structure, where the roof met with the Awning cover was not flush and the ends of the Awning cover between the facias and the structure presented an opening. Therefore, some solutions needed to be worked out to overcome these issues.


The above two pictures shows two of the solutions being tested out which was to utilise 0.5 mm thick  styrene strip that was wide as the thickness of the wall of the building and filing out an angle on where the roof section of the Metal Siding Styrene sheet meets with the Awning cover. This allowed for the styrene sheet of the awning cover to slot under the roof section with a comfortable fit. I later on attached a 0.5 mm strip of Metal styrene sheeting which I cut. I then used this strip to extend the back of the awning where the gaps were showing between the facias and the building. Therefore resolving these issues.

A bit of retro fitting out before construction of the roof. 

The Metal Styrene Sheeting is 1 mm thick, therefore I made use of 1 mm x 1 mm styrene strip to join the styrene sheets for the roof together. 

I cut up 3 lots of styrene to the profile of the roof cavity. The original intention was mainly to keep the roof shape held together, but discovered that it has actually stopped the flexing of the roof as well as firming up the roof. Looks like not much more styrene will be needed here for now.


I had to introduce a groove that is wide enough to slot in the styrene strip for the fascia.


Bit detailing work done for the rafters.


Guttering detailing work completed.

Late last year, I did some 3D printouts. Here I did the fascia which will fit under the awning from a material called high Black Hi-Def Acrylate. This 3d print material is ok, but I found that only glue that worked was super glue. Basically, I needed to rough up the surface using a tip of a file and attached the styrene strips with Super Glue. Super Glue did provide a reasonable bond, but not a strong bond. Styrene also needed to be attached to also keep the Black Hi-Def Acrylate fascias to stay in a flat shape. Styrene strip also allows the attachment of these facias to the model.


Strips of styrene attached onto the areas that will need other styrene material to attach too. You will see that I taped down one of the 3D Printed facia as it was bent. This helped to keep it flat until the Super Glue cured. 


Awning cover just about done.

I also rounded off the edges of the front fascia on the awning cover.

Waiting Room entry detailing completed. 


The Awning Supports and the Corbels I also drew up and got 3D Printed in Smoothest Fine Detail Plastic from Shapeways.  

Corbels and Awning Support have been attached to the building by using Formula 506 Canopy Glue.



The above three pictures shows the minor finishing touches which is the top of the roof and awning fascias, the roof capping and the front guttering detailing.

This model of the Wingello Waiting Room with Out of Room is almost completed. Next post will cover the painting of this model and getting it ready to be finally placed onto the Exhibition Layout.