Sunday, 18 March 2018

What??? No Tumbarumba Station Building Kit Bash Update

What Happened?
Well after some great progress shown in my last Blog, I thought that I was going to declare the roof section completed for this particular post.

However, long story cut short, I ventured into soldering of brass, which is new to me.

I thought that I had a bit of that beginners luck on my side where I was able to produce a model of a stove chimney which was in my view as perfect as I could get it.

However, when I tried to fit the Chimney to the roof, the chimney cap decided to detach itself. After several attempts to get right to what it was failed. Therefore I decided to resort for outside help to tutor me on how to solder brass correctly. Full story on the outcome of that hopefully in my next post.

Furthermore, that Game of Life has also got in the way where my work load has increased plus a few other home issues to deal with.

Since my last post, my spare model Rail Time has also been spent on my Model Rail Clubs HO Layout project and I spent a good part of a day at the Forestville Model Rail Exhibition. More on Forestville soon.

But to keep the posts rolling for this blog, I decided to do a random topic posts on Railway modelling which I hope would be of interest.

Weathering Experiment
With one project on the drawing board for 2018, I intend to do a very weathered Kit Bash model of Glenroy Railway Pc1 Station Building.

I have seen several YouTube videos on how weathering was done and I took a particular interest in a method called Rock Salt Weathering.

Basically, you acquire Rock Salt from the local supermarket (or Kitchen Pantry if you have already acquired some), break down the Rock Salt into smaller grains of salt. And place it to one side for later use.

You then apply a base coat colour (most examples used rusty brown red colours for rusting cars). Then wet the surface and apply the salt and soak it. Then wait for the salt to dry up.
Then the final topcoat is applied and once the top coat of paint is dry enough, a toothbrush is used to remove the salt from the model and once completed, you get that weathered rusty look.

I noticed that all examples I saw were done with acrylic paints and I could not find any examples of anyone trying this weathering method with enamel paint. So I thought that I shall experiment this method with enamel paint.

I know what some of you are thinking, enamel paint is oiled base, and oil and water do not mix.

I decided to do a test weathering task to resemble a timber clapboard siding with an aged paint job where the paint is chipping off.

I used a bit of Left over Styrene Clapboard siding and primed it with Tamiya Primer.

I used a grey for a base coat as aged timber has a grey look to it.

Grey enamel paint used for the base coat.

It takes a good couple of days for enamel paint to dry. Once it is dry enough, I applied the rock salt on to the areas of the clapboard in which I wanted to have the weathered look.

I then applied the water. This was a bit of a challenge on the basis that the oily painted surface was beading up the water, but the salt was gradually absorbing the water in which resulted in keeping the salt in place.

I wanted to test out Humbrol Light Bluff as potential paint colour option for Glenroy, so I decided to use this colour as the top coat.

Bottom half of the clapboard siding being weathered with the Rock Salt Weathering Method. Top half  portion not getting weathered.

As you see in the above picture the Rock Salt prevents top coat a reaching to the base coat.

After a day, with use of a toothbrush I removed the rock salt from the model. The outcome of this weathering experiment has proven to me that it can certainly be done with enamel paints.

The weathered look once the Rock has been removed.

2018 Forestville Model Rail Exhibition
My first ever visit to the Forestville Model Rail Exhibition was last year. I was rather impressed with the 2017 show that I made the effort to pay another visit for their 2018 show.

The Forestville Model Rail Exhibition was arranged by the North Shore Railway Modellers Association Inc.

I do like my NSW HO and N Scale prototype layouts, but do enjoy seeing the American and British Themed layouts that were also on show on the day.

It also great to see that Forestville has also had a few point to point type layouts included in their exhibition program.

Also of certain interest, was with a couple of the flyers I picked up along the way for the Casula Hobbies upcoming Z19 Class Steam Locomotive and the Austrians C30T Class steam locomotives, both of which will be in HO Scale.
Z19 Class did run on the Tumbarumba Branch line in its early days of operation and the 30T Class did end up becoming the prime steam Locomotive that was utilised on the Tumbarumba Branch Line. I did notice 3020 is one of the 30T's that is listed on the Austrains flyer which is one of the numbers I desire to have for my Tumbarumba Layout as it was part of a Tour Train that ran to Tumbarumba in the era that I'm modelling. But I did found one issue for me that it is listed to be supplied with a Bogie Tender, whereas the pictures that I have seen of 3020 in the mid 1960's had the 6 wheel tender. I guess it may have been a common practice that a swap between bogie and 6 Tenders may have occurred on a regular basis and perhaps 3020 did run with a bogie tender at one stage. This is by no means having a swipe at Austrians as I'm sure that they would have done their research and have for many years produced great reliable models. I guess I need to somehow work out the solution of some sort if I want to include 3020 equiped with 6 wheel tender into my Prototype Tumbarumba fleet of Locomotives. I'm sure that I will find work around for this. I guess the end solution could end up being a topic for one of my future blogs.

However, on the up side, other 30T classes that ventured down the Tumbarumba Branch Line on the Australians list were 3090, 3142 & 3144 (in the Green Livery). Either way, I have several months to consider on which ones I will select to be part of the Tumbarumba Fleet.

To finish this post off, here are some photos I took at the Forestville Model Rail Exhibition.

Above 2 Pictures are of an American Themed HO Layout called NT Junction. The Exhibition Guide states that this is 2,400 mm x 450 switching layout.

IDR Models stand demonstrating their X200 class and the upcoming 70 class diesel locomotives. Certainly the point to point concept is a great alternative if you have space limitations on where you would like to place your layout.

This Layout is called Bear Ears. The Exhibition Guide states that scenic section is only 600 mm x 300mm.

A scene of Binalong, one of Epping Model Rail Club Layouts. 

Birdport South Western Layout. 

Uley Junction O scale Layout.

The above 4 photos are of a Layout called Eyarth. This was one the longest point to point layout in the Forestville Exhibition. I have to say that my photos of this layout does not justify how well this layout was presented and operated. I do hope to see it in another exhibition in the near future.

Monday, 26 February 2018

Tumbarumba Station Building Kit Bash Part 7

Now in Time Synch with this Kit Bash Series
Finally, I have caught up to where I'm am today with this Kit Bash Project as my 2016 and 2017 activities have been covered. However, before getting into the detail of my recent work, I was hoping to have shown more progress, but a few barriers have got in the way of that plan. Some of these Barriers could have influence on how regular my future posts get produced.

Over the last few weeks in Sydney, several hot days were endured, which made my Work Bench location in my Garage a bit too hot to do any work at. Also I had to work on a couple of weekends and other home priorities got in the way. Hence, some of my free Railway modelling time being cut short. 

On top of that, I have my Model Rail Club commitments to fulfil for the upcoming exhibitions, hopefully I will be finishing them off very soon and they will be certainly a subject for my future posts.

This means that I lost out on a few good days in getting this Kit Bash to the point to where I wanted to be which would have been the completion Tumbarumba Station Roof section. However, on the positive, for what has been done, I feel that some great results have been achieved.

Example of a Typical Fibro Asbestos Tile Roofing
Here are existing example of the Fibro Asbestos Tile roofing of a Precast Concrete Station Building based at Bombala. This post is going to be mainly focused on the painting and weathering of the Roof section of Tumbarumba Station Building.

Getting the Roof Detailing Provisions Sorted
Before Painting the Roof, two lots of holes needed to be drilled into the Roof section to allow for the Stove Chimney and the Stink Pipe to be fitted to this structure.

I decided to use 1.6 mm Brass tubing for the Stove Chimney and for the portion of the Stink Pipe where I will utilise part of the Stink Pipe that is supplied with the kit.

Using some of the photographs of Tumbarumba Station that I have come across during my research as a reference, I have determined the location where the Stove Chimney needed to be placed, then I drilled a hole into that location.

Test Fit of the brass tube.

Same method was applied to the Stink Pipe.

Stink Pipe provision tested with the 1.6 mm brass tube.

Painting and Weathering the Roof Section
I first decided to prime and paint my 3D Printed Finnels and Roof Capping. I decided to paint the Finnels and Roof Capping in a colour called Go Mango in the Model Masters Enamel paint range. It will be in the end Dull Coated when the roof section gets completed, which will give the Finnels and Roof Capping a more aged look.

Once the paint was dry I did a test fit on the Roof.

The Tiled Roof Section then got Primed ready for the paint work. For the tiled roof portion, I used Humbrol Ocean Grey 106 Enamel Paint. Not the best paint job, but not an issue as it is going to be weathered.

Before I continued weathering the remainder of the the roof, I decided to do a bit a test paint on my test build of the roof to ensure that I was heading on the correct path.

I dusted the test roof section with a Light Tan Model Masters Enamel paint which I felt worked out well. It is worth noting that this test model of the roof has certainly helped in preventing painful rework on the roof section.

Gave a very Light spray of the Light Tan Model Masters Enamel paint.

In the process of trying to work out what other colours I could use the the weathering of the roof, I did a little bit of experimenting with the Tamiya Panel Line Accent Colour (Black) more so with the aim to better highlighting the grove lines of the tiled roof. However, I found that in areas where the overflow of the Panel Line Accent Colour occurred gave the eroded effect look of the surface material on some of the tiles in which I can take advantage of.

For the remainder of the weathering, I decided to utilise the dry brushing method for the tiled section of the roof. This was the first time that I was going to do dry brushing and after finding a few good YouTube how to videos and trialing the methods on the test roof, I was comfortable to move forward with the dry brushing methods.

I basically utilised the colours that I used so far the painting of the tiled section of the roof but I also introduced Model Masters Dark Ghost Grey Enamel for the dry brushing weathering.

For now, that is all the weathering of the tiled portion of the roof for now. Once the detailing for the roof section is added, further weathering work will need to be carried out.

I then masked up the Roof to allow for the painting of the corrugated awning section and painted it in Humbrol 147 Light Grey Enamel paint. (Note that Humbrol has two Light Grays in their range, the other being 64 which is darker than 147).

I did paint the facias in the Model Masters Light Ivory Enamel paint, but forgot to take photos when I completed it. Taking photos of it now will give too much away for my next post for the Tumbarumba Station Building Kit Bash series, therefore you will have to wait for the next post.

Monday, 12 February 2018

Tumbarumba Station Building Kit Bash Part 6

Refocusing Back on the Kit Bash
My kit bash series of posts for Tumbarumba Station building took a bit of a break as I was wanted to cover other tasks that I had done over the 2016/2017 year.

In this post I would like to cover the remaining Kit Bash activity that I carried out back in 2017. Over the past few weeks, I have been getting back to this Kit Bash project with the aim to get mainly the external detailing completed and gradually get the internal detailing (such as the furniture and other internal detailing) completed more so at a later stage.

Awning Section of Tumbarumba Station
Following on from the last blog on my Kit Bash series, I cut into shape the Corrugated metal siding styrene sheet for the Awning. I selected to use the Styrene option as I do want to lift the roof off this model and have access to the internal detailing. For this to happen, I would require the roof section (including the awning) to be of robust construction to allow for handling.

Due to the length of the Station Building, I needed to acquire the large sheet of Corrugated metal siding styrene sheet that Evergreen had on offer.

When I acquire the Corrugated metal siding styrene sheet and cutout the required length, It was rather bent. I tried to straighten this out be heating up the styrene sheet which did help to a degree but it was still bent. Event having it flattened over under a heavy books over a week did little to straighten it.

The styrene Awning needs a bit of straightening up.

The solution for this issue was to do the following:
- Place in some angled strips of styrene and attached them to the styrene roof cavity supports. This should help in the having the back section of the corrugated metal siding styrene sheet to be kept straight.
- Place a brass strip in the front section of the corrugated metal siding styrene sheet to keep it in a straight form.

As shown in the following pictures that these two method worked well.

Awning Supports
The Awning Supports was another challenge that I came across.
As mentioned earlier, I do want to make the roof detectable. The challenge with having this option if it is not implemented correctly, it is prone to that the awning supports would be at high risk of breaking.

The solution for this issue was to make the awning supports to be attached to the building structure to act more as detailing and take advantage of what was applied for the roof (which is now self supported). Therefore they do not need to carry any of the weight from the roof section. The awning supports will help guide the roof section back into position each time when it is reattached to the station building.

I made use of the Greg Edwards Data sheet to construct the awning supports.

The awning supports were attached to the model. After a few test with removing and reattaching the roof section, the risk of the awning supports failing was determined to be very low risk.

Detailing the Roof Section

I decided to draw up some 3D printouts for the Roof Capping and the Finnels. The roof capping and the Finnels will be one of the last items to be attached to the roof section. But needed to make sure that these 3D Printouts fitted without any issues to the roof.

I decided to use the Northeastern Scale Lumber Co. 5 / Bag HOCORRMRFB "HO" SCALE CORR METAL RF 1 1/2" X 8" just to give the awning a bit more of an authentic look to it. It did fit in well with the existing corrugated metal siding styrene sheet. I used a product called ZAP GOO PT-12. It is a very thick glue, but I find it does the job well in keeping the Northeastern Scale Lumber Corrugated sheeting stuck to the Styrene.

Facias were added to the ends of the roof section.

I also added detailing for the rafters.

My next Post will continue on with this Kit Bash Project.

Sunday, 28 January 2018

NSWGR Cc1 and Cc1 with Lamp Room are now on the Shapeways Market Place

The Cc1 3D Printout Model From the Begining
Last year, I managed to develop my 3D Drawing skills. I decided to draw up a 3D Print of the NSWGR Cc1 with Lamp Room as there was one based at Tumbarumba. There was not one that was available on the market that I could find, hence the reason for me to produce a 3D print of one.

3D Drawing of the Cc1 with Lamp Room

After a couple of printouts attempts were delivered, I have shown a few of my model rail friends they were impressed with it. But at stage it was not my intention to for it to go on the market place.

The 3D Printout of the Cc1 with Lamp Room for my Tumbarumba Layout with the Roof section scratched built.

The original roof was scratch built from Styrene, Code 55 HO Scale Micro Engineering Rail and HO Scale Corrugated Metal sheeting.

I did end up showing this model to other railway modellers and posted it on a couple of NSW and Australian Model Rail Facebook Groups and was asked by many if I will market this model.

So I decided to move forward kick off the process of placing this model onto the market.

Getting the Models Ready to Market
I decided to do also the Cc1 version (Cc1 without the Lamp Room) as they were also common and I could just easily remove the Lamp Room from my original drawing.
I felt that both of the Cc1 models would also need the roof section provided as an option as well. Therefore, I drawn the various Roof Options. This took a fair bit of time to get it right. More so on the area underneath the Roof Second that adjoins onto the verticals on Cc1 3D Print out.

3D Drawing of the Cc1

Above two photos are what I took inside the Cc1 with Lamp Room that is still in existence today at Bombala. The 3D Printed Roofs have been detailed with the concrete chocks that provides the linkage of the Rail Support for the ceiling and the Vertical Support.

I could say that the following could be best described as the pre-poduction model run notes.

Over the last few months I did encounter a few minor set backs which were easily corrected with the 3D Printouts. This means that I had get Shapeway to printout the corrected models and wait for the shipment to of the models. This takes on average 2 weeks from order placement to the 3D Printout delivery to my postal address for each correction that was made. But managed to get it all right in the end.

This also enable me to see if there were any issues encountered with the models in the way of shipment and/or other risk of issues that may occur.

I had both the Cc1 and Cc1 with Lamp Room samples printed in both Ultra Frosted and Extreme Frosted detail. I have printed out six pre-poduction models that were dispatched in 3 different shipments from Shapeways. Only one of the Cc1's was delivered slightly buckled, but was easily straighten up with use of a Hair Dryer. That buckled Cc1 model was the one that I painted in Duck Egg Blue colour (as shown in the pictures later on in this post. Unfortunately, I did not take a picture of that particular model before fixing it up.

The roof sections all seems to be deliver a little bent, but was able to easily straighten them up with the use of a Hair Dryer. This has been the only common issue found but it has an easy fix for it.

I was satisfied that these 3D Cc1 Models are ready to be marketed.

I also have written up a step by step set of instructions from the ordering to the completion of these Models.

Here is the Link to my Shapeways Store:

Here is the link for the instructions:

The Cc1 & Cc1 with Lamp Room Model Run Down
The models are in HO Scale and come in a 2 piece from Shapeways.

They will fit well with the Pc1 and Pc2 Rail Central Kits as they are the 15 inch concrete Panel. I believe that some of these Cc1 buildings may have resided also within major goods rail yards, happy to receive feedback on that point. The 10 inch concrete Panel Cc1 Buildings may be done at a later time pending on the success on what is on the market now.

As noted in the instructions, cleaning of the model is needed where sanding with 400 Grade Wet and Dry sand paper is needed. This may take a couple of hours for a careful cleanup of the the Cc1 models, but the results will be worth it in the end.

Masking up the model will take time, but if you would like the option to lift the lid and and show to people what a Cc1 looked like inside, then Masking up the model with care will be worth it.

However, cleaning up on the inside of the building will be difficult but may not be necessary as they inside will be hard to view especially if you decide to glue on the roof.

You will find that the roof section may not feel that there is a tight fit when the model is delivered, but once primed and painted, it should grab to the vertical supports on the Cc1 Building.

The fitting of the roof on the Cc1 with Lamp Room will be simple to work out, but for the Cc1 with no Lamp room, one of the roof linkages channel to the Cc1 is wider than the others. This is due to the fact that the vertical support that has the toilet enclosure wall connected it, is wider as there are 3 lots of concrete panels connected to the one Vertical.

The Cc1 and the Cc1 with Lamp Room both come with two Roofing options which is Roof with no fascia's and Roof with fascia's. Basically, some Cc1's may not have the Corrugated Roofing (or it got removed at some point) and no fascia's, where as others did. Basically you decide on the roofing option.

If you decide to purchase a Cc1 with the Roof with fascia's to place on corrugated iron, then HO corrugated sheeting will be needed. I would personally recommend Northeastern Scale Lumber Co. 5 / Bag HOCORRMRFB "HO" SCALE CORR METAL RF 1 1/2" X 8". A Hobby store should have these in stock. But if you are looking at doing multiple structures for you Model Rail Project, what is left of this corrugated roof will not go to waste.

The Door for the Cc1 with Lamp room will need Grandt Line 30" x 66" Planked Door (Reference Number 5293). The door may need to be filed slightly to fit into the Door Frame.

Cc1 with Lamp Room based at Bombala. Its construction is inverted compared to the standard Cc1's. Bombala version may be modelled later on pending if there is a resonable demand for it.

Pricing of the Cc1 3D Printed Models
Shapeways base their pricing in US dollars, which means the pricing will vary day to day for other international currencies. However, Shapeways do specials throughout the year which could be free postage deal, or a price mark down.
At the time of publishing this post, I only have the Cc1 models in my stall, but I would encourage you to look at other stalls within Shapeways to see if there are other Shapeway other products from so to better capitalise on the postage.

Shapeways deals may also come up as a popup on their Website, like for example full out a survey and receive a discount on your next order. The common time for Shapeways deals are on Black Friday Sales (In November).

Also you will noticed that there is a significant price difference between Frosted Ultra Detail and Frosted Extreme Detail 3D printed materials.

Both 3D Printed materials are decent, but the Frosted Extreme Detail is slightly easier to clean up compared to the Frosted Ultra Detail. I have made both options available in my Shapeways Store for both the Cc1 and Cc1 With Lamp Room structures.

However, I have only done the Roof sections in Frosted Ultra Detail based on the fact that the roof section is very easy to clean up and as well to try and keep the price down.

Other items to Market 
There may be a few more items that will make it's way to the Shapeways market place, but for now I would just like to see how successful the Cc1 models are before placing any other items onto the market place.

Some More Pictures of the Cc1 3D Printed Models
The following are the Cc1 with Lamp Room that contains the Roof with fascia's on the left and the Cc1 that contains the Roof with no Fascia's on the right. Note that the Corrugated sheeting, the door and rail on the Cc1 with Lamp room are detailing that needs to be sourced outside of the Shapeways store.